·
—°
Loading Paris weather…
A Family's Field Guide · 1er Arrondissement

Paris with Toddlers

A week of carousels, croissants, museums and naps — written for one specific family at one specific address. Every walking time, every shop, every plan starts from your front door.

3 rue d'Alger · 75001 Spring & Fall Ages 1–4

01 — Your Home Base

You picked an exceptional block

The Louvre Rivoli pocket of the 1st arrondissement is, hands-down, the best toddler base in central Paris. The Tuileries📍 — with its playgrounds, sailboat pond, trampoline park, and carousel — is across the street. The Louvre📍 is five minutes east. And the Métro line that actually has elevators (Line 14📍) is four minutes north. You will walk to almost everything.

Your Address

3 rue d'Alger

75001 Paris · 1er arrondissement

Quartier Louvre–Rivoli · Métro Tuileries📍 (Line 1📍, 2 min) · Pyramides📍 (Line 14📍, 4 min)

Open in Google Maps →  ·  Walking directions to the Louvre →

The View From Your Front Door

Step out of 3 rue d'Alger and turn south (left if facing the street): you're 30 seconds from the rue de Rivoli arcades📍. Cross at Place des Pyramides📍Joan of Arc on her gilded horse📍 marks the spot — and you're in the Tuileries📍. Turn north (right) instead and you're 90 seconds from rue Saint-Honoré📍: bakeries, a pharmacy, and the church bells of Saint-Roch📍. This is one of the calmer pockets of central Paris because there are no through-streets for cars.

02 — Your Walk Radius

Everything within a 10-minute push of the stroller

A genuine advantage of your address: most of what a toddler family needs day-to-day is right here. Memorize this list and you'll skip the Métro half your trip.

Transit, in walking minutes

2 min
Stairs only — fine if folded; line goes to Louvre, Champs-Élysées, Bastille, Vincennes
4 min
★ Fully accessible — elevator at every Line 14 stop. Use this with the stroller.
5 min
Same station; second platform. Goes to Opéra, Le Peletier, Pont Neuf📍
8 min
Métro Concorde📍 (Lines 1, 8, 12)
Down through the Tuileries
10 min
Bus 72 stop (rue de Rivoli📍)
Riverside route to Hôtel de Ville & Trocadéro📍

Daily essentials, in walking minutes

1 min
Tuileries📍 playground & sailboat pond
★ Cross rue de Rivoli at Place des Pyramides
3 min
Pâtisserie Cédric Grolet (Le Meurice📍)
228 rue de Rivoli — go for the fruit pastries; queue early
3 min
€2.50 per ride; near Place de la Concorde end
4 min
Open square; great for stroller laps and a peek at the Ritz
5 min
Cross the Tuileries, enter under the glass
5 min
224 rue de Rivoli — oldest English bookshop on the continent; toddler section
5 min
248 rue de Rivoli — bigger toddler/picture book selection
6 min
Quiet, fountains, the Buren columns📍 kids love to climb
7 min
226 rue de Rivoli — Mont Blanc & chocolat l'africain
8 min
Pharmacie at Pyramides📍
Multiple options on rue Saint-Honoré, English spoken
8 min
23 av. de l'Opéra — diapers, baby food, snacks, wine
8 min
Big open square; obelisk; gateway to the Champs-Élysées
10 min
Pont des Arts📍 & the Seine
Pedestrian bridge, river views, frequent street performers
10 min
Monet's Water Lilies; small & toddler-fast in 45 min

The Single Best Routine

Wake up. Slip out for a croissant from the boulangerie on rue Saint-Honoré (turn right out the door, walk 90 seconds). Walk it back to the apartment. Get the toddler ready. Cross the street into the Tuileries📍. Spend the whole morning between the playground, the carousel, and the sailboat pond. Lunch at the apartment. Nap. Then a smaller afternoon outing. Repeat.

Walking through history — a YouTube companion to your block

Every square within ten minutes of 3 rue d'Alger is layered with several centuries of French political drama. Queue these short, well-regarded YouTube documentaries the night before — they turn an ordinary stroller loop into a guided tour. Each linked place name below opens its Wikipedia article and the 📍 opens its map pin.

All YouTube links open in a new tab. Audio podcasts (Rest Is History, etc.) work nicely from a phone in your pocket while the toddler naps in the stroller.

03 — Before You Go

Setting up for a calm trip

Paris with a toddler is best when you plan around naps, pack light, and lower expectations. Here's what to handle before you leave.

Pack the right stroller

A lightweight, narrow, single-handed-fold stroller is the most important piece of gear you'll bring. Sidewalks on rue d'Alger are paved but uneven, museum security wands are tight, café aisles are narrow, and Métro turnstiles are a squeeze. The Stokke YOYO², Babyzen YOYO, and UPPAbaby Minu are all road-tested favorites for Paris. Bring or buy a rain cover — Spring and Fall showers come fast.

Pro Tip — Don't Buy, Rent

If you don't want to fly with bulky baby gear, Paris has excellent rental services that deliver right to 3 rue d'Alger: Babonbo, Traveling Baby Company, and Paris Bébé rent strollers, car seats, cribs, high chairs, and sound machines by the day or week. Book delivery for your check-in slot.

Packing essentials checklist

Compact umbrella stroller Stroller rain cover Soft baby carrier (Ergobaby, BabyBjörn) Lightweight blanket for picnics Sound machine or white-noise app Travel blackout shades Familiar snacks (puffs, pouches, bars) Refillable sippy + water bottle Small day bag (back-friendly) Children's Tylenol/Advil Sunhat & sunscreen (SPF 50) Light raincoat for toddler 2 spare outfit changes Diapers for first 24 hours only Universal plug adapter (Type E) Portable changing pad

Beating jet lag

Most US families lose a full day to jet lag, so plan a soft landing: don't schedule anything ticketed for the first 24 hours. You're four steps from one of the world's great parks — a slow morning at the Tuileries with sunlight exposure is the single best jet-lag remedy for toddlers.

Travel documents

Toddlers need their own passport (valid at least 6 months past return), and US citizens will need ETIAS authorization once it goes live in late 2026 — check the official site before booking. If only one parent is traveling, carry a notarized consent letter from the other parent.

04 — Getting Around

From rue d'Alger, you mostly walk

Your daily mix from this address: 70% walking, 15% bus, 10% Métro (mostly Line 14), 5% taxi. Plan around stairs, not distance.

Métro from your block

Two stations, very different experiences:

Children under 4 ride free on Métro, RER, bus, and tram. Kids 4–9 pay half-fare. Buy a Navigo Easy card📍 at the Pyramides ticket window — much cheaper than buying singles.

Bus from your block

Every Paris bus is fully wheelchair- and stroller-accessible with a ramp the driver deploys. Two stops are within five minutes of you:

StopBusesWhere they go
Pyramides (av. de l'Opéra)21, 27, 68, 9521 to Gare Saint-Lazare📍; 27 to Saint-Lazare📍 and Porte d'Ivry📍; 95 to Montmartre📍" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Montmartre
Tuileries (rue de Rivoli)72Riverside views all the way to Trocadéro📍/Eiffel Tower📍 (one direction) or Hôtel de Ville📍/Marais📍 (other)
Palais Royal–Comédie Française📍27, 39, 95Across the Seine to Saint-Germain📍 (39); to Montparnasse📍 (95)

Stroller Reality Check

If your child is napping in the stroller and you hit a stairs-only Métro stop, look for the wider "accès poussettes / fauteuils" gate near the agent booth — press the call button and they'll buzz you through. Some agents will even help you carry the stroller up. Or just take the bus instead.

Taxis & airport transfers

Paris taxis are not required to provide car seats, and most don't have one. For your CDG📍 or Orly📍 transfer, book a family-friendly service to pick up at 3 rue d'Alger: Blacklane, Welcome Pickups, and Kids Abroad all offer car seats on request. Allow 60 minutes to CDG📍, 45 to Orly📍 during off-peak.

05 — Attractions

Top sights, ranked by walking time from your door

Skip the abstract "must-do" list. From rue d'Alger, the question is just how far do you want to push the stroller today?

Tuileries at sunset
★ 1 minute · Free

Jardin des Tuileries

Your front yard. Between the Louvre📍 and Place de la Concorde📍, this royal garden has everything a toddler trip needs: a fenced playground, a trampoline park (€3 per session), a giant carousel, and the famous round basin where a kindly old man rents wooden sailboats by the half-hour for €4. Push the boats across with a long stick — pure 19th-century magic. Garden info →

Tuileries Palace ruins after the 1871 fire
★ 2 min · Free · The ghost palace

Tuileries Palace📍 — the lost royal residence under your feet

The single most under-appreciated thing about your address: when you walk east through the Tuileries📍 from your apartment toward the Louvre📍, you cross the footprint of a vanished palace. Built for Catherine de' Medici📍 in 1564, it was the Paris home of nearly every French monarch from Henri IV to Napoleon III. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were imprisoned here after Versailles, and on 10 August 1792 a Marseillais-led mob stormed the palace and massacred the Swiss Guards — the moment the monarchy effectively died. The palace itself was torched by the Paris Commune in May 1871 and demolished in 1883. The empty axis between the Arc du Carrousel📍 and the Louvre's Cour Napoléon📍 is where it stood; a few stone fragments survive in the garden's western terraces. Walk it once with this story in mind and the stroller route is suddenly time travel.

Listen as you walk

The Rest Is History · Ep. 506 — "Massacre at the Palace" · Tom Holland and Dominic Sandbrook walk you through the 10 August 1792 storming of the Tuileries hour by hour. Available on the Rest Is History French Revolution YouTube playlist (Part 4) and on Spotify · Apple Podcasts. The previous episode (Part 3 · "The Tuileries Besieged") sets the scene; Part 5 · "The Marseillaise" closes it out. Queue all three the night before — they make the morning walk through the garden unforgettable.

Visual companion: "The Tuileries Palace In Paris: The Royal Residence Paris Burned Down" (12 min, YouTube) reconstructs the building room by room. Pair it with "Photos of the Ruins of the Tuileries Palace After the Paris Commune (1871)" for the haunting after-the-fire images.

The Louvre
5 min · Stroller-friendly

The Louvre — short and sweet

More toddler-friendly than its reputation: lifts to every floor, large halls for stroller naps, and free baby carriers and strollers to borrow at the assistance desk under the Pyramid. Plan a 90-minute visit onlyMona Lisa📍, Winged Victory📍, the Egyptian sphinxes (always a kid hit), then out. Family info & treasure-hunt sheets → Book the earliest entry slot (9am) to beat the crowds. You'll be back home for nap time.

Musée de l'Orangerie
10 min · 45-min visit

Musée de l'Orangerie

At the far end of the Tuileries — Monet's eight massive Water Lilies📍 panels in two oval rooms designed by the painter himself. Small, manageable, and genuinely awe-inspiring even for a 2-year-old who has never met an art museum before. Forty-five minutes is plenty. Tickets → Children under 18 are free.

Eiffel Tower
25 min walk · Bus 72 from your door

Eiffel Tower📍 & Champ de Mars📍

Take Bus 72 along the Seine — get off at Trocadéro📍 for the best photo angle, walk down through the gardens, cross to Champ de Mars. You don't need to go up; the view from the lawn is the moment most kids remember. If you do ascend, book a timed entry to the 2nd floor only📍 — children under 4 are free. Time it for the on-the-hour 5-minute sparkle show after dusk.

Jardin d'Acclimatation
25 min · Métro Line 1 from Tuileries

Jardin d'Acclimatation📍

From your home Tuileries station, Line 1 west to Les Sablons📍 gets you to Paris's century-old amusement garden in 20 minutes. Toddler-scale rides, petting farm, mini train, distorting mirrors, and shaded playgrounds. Free for kids under 3; €7 garden entry, or €46 day pass. Buy tickets → A perfect full-day outing on Day 4.

🎼
30 min · 19th · Métro Line 14 + RER E

Philharmonie des Enfants & family concerts

The Philharmonie des Enfants📍 is a permanent hands-on music exhibition built specifically for kids 4–10 — touch instruments, conduct an orchestra, walk inside a giant guitar. Ages 0–3 not officially admitted, but they're welcome at the dedicated family concerts📍 (45 minutes, narrator + chamber group) and the special Petit Grand Festival on March 28–29, 2026 with concerts billed for ages "3 months and up." From your apartment: Métro 14 to Châtelet, change to RER E to Magenta, then 5 to Hoche — or one direct bus.

🐉
30 min · 19th · Free · Best for 3+

Le Jardin du Dragon (La Villette)

A blue, pink and yellow steel dragon the height of a five-story building, with a 25-metre tunnel slide running out of its mouth. The slide itself is officially for ages 8–12 (a real toddler can ride it on a parent's lap, and many do), but right next to it is a dedicated toddler play zone with climbing nets, swings, seesaws and rope structures sized for under-4s. Free, in Parc de la Villette📍 — pair it with the Philharmonie📍 or Cité des Sciences📍 for a full La Villette📍 day. Open 9am to dusk daily.

🦕
25 min · 5th · Multiple attractions in one

Jardin des Plantes📍 & Natural History Museum

One ticket-free garden, four ticketed attractions — pick the one that fits your toddler's energy. The Grande Galerie de l'Évolution📍 is the showstopper: a massive 19th-century atrium with a parade of life-size stuffed elephants, giraffes and zebras under a glass roof — universal toddler awe. The dedicated Galerie des Enfants📍 inside is a hands-on interactive zone for ages 6–12 (younger kids fine if accompanied). The Ménagerie📍 is Paris's oldest zoo (1794) — small, intimate, red pandas and snow leopards (under-3 free). Plus a hedge maze, greenhouses, a playground, and the lovely Les Belles Plantes café terrace. From your apartment: Bus 24 along the Seine to Pont d'Austerlitz📍, ~25 min.

06 — Playgrounds

Playgrounds within easy reach

From rue d'Alger you've got two world-class playgrounds inside a 10-minute walk and several more a short bus ride away. The Tuileries is your daily; the rest are excursions.

★ 1 min · Free

Tuileries Playground📍

Your daily. Fenced playground in the heart of the Tuileries, plus a separate trampoline park (€3 per 8 minutes) and the carousel just down the path. Pair with the sailboat pond for a perfect afternoon.

6 min · Free

Jardin du Palais Royal📍

Quieter than the Tuileries, with a long fountain pool and the famous Buren columns toddlers love to clamber over. Less of a "playground" per se, more of a calm courtyard with room to run.

15 min · 6th · €4 entry

Ludo Jardin (Luxembourg)📍

Bus 27 or 87 across the Seine. Paris's most famous playground inside the Jardin du Luxembourg — fully enclosed, separate toddler zone with sandbox, climbing area for older kids. Worth the journey.

20 min · 16th · €7 included

Jardin d'Acclimatation

A whole network of playgrounds inside the Bois de Boulogne📍 theme park — toddler climbers, water play in summer, trampolines, and a giant slide.

15 min · 8th · Free

Parc Monceau📍

Manicured English-style park with rope bridges, slides, sandboxes, miniature pyramids and a duck pond. A nice change of scene from the Tuileries.

15 min · 1st · Free

Jardin Nelson Mandela (Les Halles)📍

The thoroughly modern playground above the Châtelet shopping center — sand pit, climbing hill, low slides, pirate-ship structure for older toddlers. A solid rainy-day-ish backup since much is canopied.

07 — Food

Eating with toddlers near rue d'Alger

Paris is more child-friendly than its reputation suggests, but the rules are different. The keys: book early seatings, ask for a chaise haute (high chair) when you reserve, and choose brasseries over haute cuisine. Your block has solid options for all three meals.

Restaurant strategy

Most "real" restaurants only open at 7:30pm, which is past most toddler bedtimes. Instead aim for:

Within 10 minutes of your door

Loulou · Jardin des Tuileries📍

5 min · Italian, garden views

Inside the Musée des Arts Décoratifs📍 courtyard, with a terrace overlooking the Tuileries. Pasta and pizza served all afternoon — a rare Paris luxury for a toddler family. Bring a book; the wait isn't kid-fast but the food lands.

Reserve →

Café Marly · Cour Napoléon📍

5 min · Louvre views

Under the arches looking onto the Louvre Pyramid. Expensive but the view is the show; toddlers like the wide terrace. Order a Croque Marly and a glass of rosé and call it lunch.

Hours →

Le Soufflé · 36 rue du Mont Thabor📍

3 min · Sweet/savory soufflés

A throwback institution one block from your door. Cheese, mushroom, and Grand Marnier soufflés; high chairs; tolerant of small humans at lunch. Reserve.

Reserve →

Telescope Café · 5 rue Villedo📍

8 min · Coffee & pastry

One of the best third-wave coffee bars in Paris. Tiny, but if you grab a flat white and an almond croissant to-go, you can carry it 60 seconds to the Palais Royal gardens.

Hours →

Pâtisserie Cédric Grolet · Le Meurice📍

3 min · Pastry of the gods

The best pastry in Paris, full stop. The fruit pastries (peach, lemon, cherry) are little works of art. Queue forms at 8:30am; go before opening or save for an off-hour. Take it back to the apartment to eat.

Locations →

The Picnic Hack

Walk to the boulangerie on rue Saint-Honoré, then Monoprix Opéra📍, then Galignani📍 for a magazine. Grab a rotisserie chicken (poulet rôti, ~€12), a baguette, ripe cheese, fruit, and a bottle of Provence rosé. Eat it on a Tuileries bench while the toddler runs herself out. Total walk from your door: 12 minutes. Total cost: €25. Best dinner of the trip.

Snack & supply quick reference

You need…Closest to rue d'AlgerNote
Diapers, wipes, formulaMonoprix Opéra (8 min)Pampers and Huggies widely available
Organic baby food / pouchesNaturalia📍 · 36 av. de l'OpéraBrands like Babybio, Holle
Children's medicine, sunscreenPharmacie · 1 rue Saint-Honoré (4 min)English-friendly
Quick toddler lunchBoulangerie Liberté📍 · rue Saint-HonoréHam-and-butter sandwich, mini quiche
Treat / rewardBerthillon📍 ice cream cart in Tuileries (summer)Or Pierre Hermé📍 at 39 av. de l'Opéra (10 min)
Wine for the apartmentNicolas📍 · 31 av. de l'Opéra (8 min)Reliable chain, ask for help in English

08 — Itinerary

A 5-day plan from your door

Built around two big things, a long lunch, a nap, and your home Tuileries playground. Every day starts and ends at 3 rue d'Alger.

Day1

Soft Landing in the Tuileries

Theme: low-stakes, sunlight, early bedtime.

  • Morning: Settle in. Slip out for croissants from the boulangerie on rue Saint-Honoré.
  • Late morning: Cross into the Tuileries. Sailboat pond → playground → carousel.
  • Lunch: Picnic on the lawn or quick bite at Loulou📍's terrace.
  • Afternoon: Nap. Easy dinner of pasta or rotisserie chicken at the apartment by 6pm.
Day2

The Louvre & the Right Bank

  • Morning (9am sharp): Walk five minutes to the Louvre Pyramid. Pre-booked early entry. 90 minutes inside: Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, the Egyptian sphinxes, exit.
  • Midday: Coffee at Café Marly📍 under the Louvre arches.
  • Afternoon: Walk back through the Tuileries. Nap.
  • Evening: Soufflés at Le Soufflé📍 — three minutes from your door.
Day3

Eiffel Tower & Seine

  • Morning: Bus 72 from rue de Rivoli stop along the river to Trocadéro. Photos. Walk down through the gardens to Champ de Mars.
  • Midday: Lunch at Le Cassenoix📍 or grab market fixings on Rue Cler📍.
  • Afternoon: Nap-cruise on the Seine — book the 2pm Bateaux Parisiens📍.
  • Evening: Sparkles at the Eiffel Tower on the hour after dark, or back home for the sparkle from the Tuileries.
Day4

Jardin d'Acclimatation

  • Full day: Walk to Tuileries Métro, Line 1 west to Les Sablons (20 min). Spend the day on rides, the petting farm, and the giant slide.
  • Lunch: Inside the park — Le Pavillon des Oiseaux📍 is reliable.
  • Afternoon nap: in the stroller, or back home if the day's running long.
  • Dinner: Easy pasta in. Early bedtime — they will be wiped.
Day5

Montmartre & the Orangerie

  • Morning: Bus 95 from Pyramides to Pigalle. Funicular up to Sacré-Cœur. Carrousel de Saint-Pierre. Stroll the (less touristed) Abbesses neighborhood📍.
  • Lunch: Crêpes at Breizh Café Marais📍 on the way back.
  • Afternoon: Nap. Then Musée de l'Orangerie at the bottom of the Tuileries — Monet's Water Lilies in 45 min.
  • Evening: Final dinner at Angelina (early) or apartment picnic with a Tuileries sunset.

If you have 6 or 7 days, add:

A morning at the Parc Zoologique📍 (Day 6), and a half-day trip to Versailles📍's gardens (Day 7) — skip the château, run on the Grand Canal📍 lawns and rent a rowboat. Take the RER C from Pont Neuf or Musée d'Orsay (10 min walk from your door). Under-4s ride free.

09 — Reading & Media

What to read, watch, and listen to

A trip with a toddler is more about preparing the imagination than the suitcase. Below: books, films, podcasts, and music for both of you and for them — to read on the plane, listen to in the apartment, and pack into the suitcase for the trip.

For the grown-ups

Books — start here

Memoir · Parenting

Bringing Up Bébé

Essential. American journalist raises three kids in Paris and dissects what French parenting does differently — patience at restaurants, "the pause" before nighttime feeds, why French toddlers eat blue cheese. Read the week before you go. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Memoir · Family in Paris

Paris to the Moon

The New Yorker writer's five years in Paris with his young son — small, funny, beautifully observed essays on raising a child in a place where everything is new to both of you. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Memoir · Food

The Sweet Life in Paris

A pastry chef explains everyday Paris — from queueing etiquette to why the cheese counter intimidates Americans. Funny, practical, hungry-making. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Memoir · Classic

A Moveable Feast

Hemingway's 1920s Paris — Saint-Germain cafés, walks along the Seine, hungry mornings. Read it on the plane. Slim, glittering. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Memoir · Cooking

My Life in France

Julia and Paul arrive in Paris in 1948 with no French and a postwar appetite. Joyful, generous, and pairs beautifully with a market-bought baguette. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Essays · Neighborhood

The Only Street in Paris

A whole book about life on rue des Martyrs. Will change how you walk every Paris block — including yours. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Novels & fiction

Novel · Atmosphere

Sarah's Key

Paris during the 1942 Vel d'Hiv roundup, woven with a present-day American journalist's investigation. Heavy but unputdownable; teaches you to see the brass plaques on Paris buildings. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Novel · Romp

The Paris Apartment

A perfectly trashy mystery set entirely in one Paris building. Read in two evenings on the apartment couch. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Novel · Lit

The Elegance of the Hedgehog

A philosophical novel set in a posh Paris apartment building, narrated by the concierge and a precocious twelve-year-old. Quietly wonderful. Buy on Amazon · Bookshop.org · Audible

Films & TV

Film · Essential

Amélie (2001)

The most-Paris film ever made, mostly shot in Montmartre. Yann Tiersen's accordion soundtrack is the sound of your trip. Watch the night before you fly. IMDb · JustWatch · Criterion

Film · Fantasy

Midnight in Paris (2011)

A literary postcard. Owen Wilson trips back into 1920s Paris and meets Hemingway, Stein, Picasso. Easy to watch on the plane. IMDb · JustWatch

Series · Heist

Lupin (Netflix)

Created by George Kay & François Uzan

Omar Sy as a gentleman thief who haunts the actual Louvre, Étretat, and Père Lachaise. Stylish; bingeable; a great primer for the city's geography. IMDb · Netflix

Series · Industry comedy

Call My Agent! / Dix pour Cent (Netflix)

Created by Fanny Herrero

The sharpest French comedy of the last decade. Talent agents, real French film stars playing themselves, a love letter to working Paris. IMDb · Netflix

Film · French New Wave

The 400 Blows (1959)

The first French New Wave masterpiece — a 12-year-old boy roaming postwar Paris. The final freeze-frame on the beach is one of cinema's greatest endings. IMDb · JustWatch · Criterion

Film · Family-watch

Ratatouille (2007)

Watch with the toddler. The skyline shots, the bistro kitchens, the Paris-at-night sequences are accurate enough that you'll spot the bridges from your apartment window. Yes — eat at a bistro afterward. IMDb · JustWatch

Podcasts for the trip

Podcast · Weekly

The Earful Tower

Hosted by Oliver Gee

An Australian-in-Paris interviews the people who make the city tick — bouquinistes, cheesemakers, museum directors. Charming and useful. Start with the "Paris with Kids" episodes. Apple Podcasts · Spotify

Podcast · Stories

Bonjour Paris

Hosted by Sue Aran

Smart, longform pieces on Paris food, fashion, and culture — perfect for the plane. Apple Podcasts · Spotify

Podcast · Language

Coffee Break French

Mark Pentleton

Fifteen-minute lessons that genuinely teach you to say more than bonjour. Two episodes a day in the run-up will pay for itself in restaurant interactions. Apple Podcasts · Spotify

Podcast · History · ★ Essential for your block

The Rest Is History — French Revolution series

The single best audio companion to your block. Episode 506 · "Massacre at the Palace" walks you through the storming of the Tuileries Palace on 10 August 1792 — across the street from your front door. Listen as you push the stroller through the garden. YouTube playlist · Spotify · Apple Podcasts

Music — a Paris-trip playlist

For atmosphere in the apartment and on the plane: Yann Tiersen's Amélie soundtrack (Spotify · Apple Music), Édith Piaf (Spotify · Apple Music, "La Vie en rose," "Non, je ne regrette rien"), Serge Gainsbourg (Spotify · Apple Music, try the album Histoire de Melody Nelson), Carla Bruni's (Spotify · Apple Music) acoustic Quelqu'un m'a dit, Christine and the Queens (Spotify · Apple Music), Stromae (Spotify · Apple Music), Charlotte Gainsbourg (Spotify · Apple Music), and Vanessa Paradis (Spotify · Apple Music). For something modern and soft: anything by Alexandra Stréliski (Spotify · Apple Music, Quebecois pianist, but the vibe is right).


For the toddler

Picture books — read in the weeks before

Ages 0–3 · Board book

Everybody Bonjours!

Tightly rhyming text follows a little girl through Paris's classic kid spots — boats on the pond, the Eiffel Tower, the Métro. Exactly the right scope for a 1- to 3-year-old. Repeat reading guaranteed. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 1–4 · Classic

This Is Paris

Reissued mid-century classic with stylized retro illustrations of every Paris landmark. Big, bright, perfect for pointing at things and naming them. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 2–6 · Picture book

Madeline

"In an old house in Paris that was covered with vines / Lived twelve little girls in two straight lines." The best 60-second toddler tour of Paris's monuments ever set to verse. The Caldecott still earns it. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 2–5 · Picture book

A Walk in Paris

A girl and her grandfather walk from the Métro to the Seine. Watercolors, real geography, a perfect "we will do this together" prep book. Ends at the Eiffel Tower. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 2–6 · Picture book

Adèle & Simon

Adèle's little brother loses one item per spread on their walk home from school across Paris — kids hunt the missing crayon, hat, scarf in detailed turn-of-the-century illustrations of Paris landmarks. A seek-and-find that doubles as an art lesson. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 3+ · Pop-up

Paris Up, Up and Away

Laser-cut paper sculpture of the Eiffel Tower's journey across Paris on a sunny day. A coffee-table art object that toddlers will return to all year. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 1–3 · Board book

Hello, World! France

A board book sturdy enough to throw across the apartment, with cartoon cheese, baguettes, and Eiffel Towers — vocabulary basics for the youngest travelers. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Ages 3–5 · Story

Mr. Postmouse Takes a Trip

A mouse mailman tours world cities including Paris. Detailed cross-section illustrations are catnip for kids who like to peek into windows. · Amazon · Bookshop.org

Books for the suitcase

Pack two or three favorites from home — familiarity beats novelty in a strange apartment. Add one new Paris book, kept hidden, to deploy on a hard nap day. The English bookstores on rue de Rivoli (Galigniani and WH Smith, both 5 minutes from your door) have excellent toddler sections if you need an emergency book.

Films & shows toddler-tested

Ages 2–4 · Film

The Aristocats (1970)

The most pleasant Paris movie for the smallest kids — cats in a Paris townhouse, the Eiffel Tower in the title sequence, a swing-jazz soundtrack toddlers love to march to. 78 minutes. Watch on the plane. · IMDb · Disney+

Ages 2–5 · Series

Madeline (1988 TV special & series)

Based on Bemelmans

The animated series adapts each picture book into 22-minute episodes, with Christopher Plummer narrating. Streaming on multiple platforms; perfect for downtime in the apartment. · IMDb · Amazon Prime Video

Ages 3+ · Film

Ratatouille (2007)

Some scenes (kitchen knives, the rat-vs-old-lady opening) might unsettle the very small, but 3-year-olds and up will love the food, the bridges, and Remy's culinary heroics. Watch before dinner; you'll all want gnocchi after. · IMDb · JustWatch

Ages 1–3 · Bedtime

Sago Mini Friends App

Not Paris-specific but quiet, ad-free, and toddler-paced. A travel-day savior on the iPad for windows you need for yourself. · App Store · Google Play

Music & songs

Build a 30-minute looping toddler-Paris playlist for travel days and nap times: Frère Jacques, Sur le pont d'Avignon, Au clair de la lune, Alouette, and any track from Putumayo Kids' French Playground compilation · Spotify · Apple Music. For something modern, the Henri Dès "Comptines" playlist has been turning French toddlers into small Édith Piafs for fifty years · Henri Dès (artist page) · Spotify · Apple Music. The Amélie soundtrack is universally toddler-soothing · Spotify · Apple Music.

Apps & podcasts for kids

App · Language

Gus on the Go: French

The best toddler-French app, by miles. Twenty-five minutes of mini-games to learn colors, numbers, animals, food. Five minutes a day starting a month before the trip will produce small miracles. · App Store · Google Play

Podcast · Stories

Une histoire et... Oli

French children's-story podcast — even if your toddler doesn't understand a word, the rhythms and melodies are lovely background while you cook in the apartment. Bedtime gold. · Apple Podcasts · Spotify

Podcast · English

Circle Round

15-minute folk tales from around the world; several from France. A great long-flight companion via downloaded episodes. · Apple Podcasts · Spotify

10 — Essentials

The practical stuff

Diaper-changing & nursing near rue d'Alger

Your apartment is the best changing table you'll have all trip. When out: the Louvre (under the Pyramid), the Tuileries near the Place de la Concorde end (a small Sanisette set), Galeries Lafayette📍 (a 10-minute Métro from Pyramides), and the WH Smith bookstore on rue de Rivoli all have reliable changing facilities. Bring a portable changing pad for everywhere else. Nursing in public is widely accepted; most cafés will not bat an eye.

Public restrooms

Paris has free, self-cleaning Sanisette toilets on most major squares — green light = available, red = occupied. They are wheelchair- and stroller-accessible. The closest to your apartment are at the entrance to the Tuileries near Place de la Concorde and at the Pyramides Métro exit.

Wifi & SIM cards

Free wifi at all Paris public parks, libraries, and cafés. For data, an Airalo eSIM is the easiest — €10 for 5GB across 30 days, set up before you fly.

Useful French phrases

Tap any row to hear the French phrase spoken aloud.

EnglishFrench
At restaurants & cafés
HelloBonjour.
Do you have a high chair?Avez-vous une chaise haute?
A children's portion, pleaseUne portion enfant, s'il vous plaît.
Tap water, pleaseUne carafe d'eau, s'il vous plaît.
Without ice, pleaseSans glaçons, s'il vous plaît.
The check, pleaseL'addition, s'il vous plaît.
Out and about
Where is the changing table?Où est la table à langer?
Where is the playground?Où est l'aire de jeux?
Is there an elevator?Y a-t-il un ascenseur?
Two adults and one child, pleaseDeux adultes et un enfant, s'il vous plaît.
My child is sleepingMon enfant dort.
How much does it cost?Ça coûte combien?
Can you help me, please?Pouvez-vous m'aider, s'il vous plaît?
I don't speak FrenchJe ne parle pas français.
Pleasantries
Thank youMerci.
Thank you very muchMerci beaucoup.
No, thank youNon, merci.
Excuse meExcusez-moi.
Sorry / Pardon mePardon.
GoodbyeAu revoir.

Weather (spring/fall)

Spring (April–May) averages 50–65°F; Fall (Sept–Oct) is 55–70°F. Both have spurts of rain — pack a rain cover for the stroller and light layers. The big upside: short queues and tolerable temperatures for stroller naps. Check current forecast →

11 — Health & Emergencies

If something goes sideways

NeedNumber / linkNotes
EU general emergency112Works from any phone, English-friendly
Medical (SAMU)15Ambulance for urgent illness/injury
Police17
Closest pharmacyPharmacie at 1 rue Saint-Honoré (4 min walk)English spoken; standard hours
24-hour pharmacyPharmacie Anglaise des Champs-Élysées📍English-speaking, 15 min by bus 72
English pediatricianAmerican Hospital of Paris📍Neuilly-sur-Seine📍, 24h pediatric ER
US EmbassyUS Embassy Paris📍2 Avenue Gabriel📍 · 8 min walk through the Tuileries

Travel Insurance

French public hospitals will treat your child without question, but billing is unpredictable for non-residents. A short-term family travel policy from Allianz, World Nomads, or IMG Patriot typically runs $40–$80 for a family of three — worth it for peace of mind.

12 — More Resources

Read more, plan better

Sortir à Paris (Kids)

The local what's-on guide; their toddler section is updated weekly with new shows, expos and pop-ups. Filter by 1er arrondissement to see what's near you this week.

Visit →

Paris Mômes

French-language but Google-Translatable — the gold-standard for children's events in Paris.

Visit →

HiP Paris Blog

Long-form, beautifully written family-in-Paris essays from American expat parents.

Visit →

Paris Unlocked

Practical guides from a long-time Paris resident, including a deep "Paris with kids" section.

Visit →

Bonjour RATP App

Official Paris transit. The app shows live elevator status — vital with a stroller.

Get the app →

Citymapper Paris

Better than Google Maps for Paris transit; routes around Métro stations without elevators.

Open →